One word: lovely. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Spring 2020 show for the house of Dior was simply lovely in every sense of the word. Each look was more effortless than the next and perfectly aligned with the overall inspiration for the collection: Catherine Dior. Catherine, sister of Christian and the “Miss” of Miss Dior was also a resistance fighter and concentration camp prisoner who later became an acclaimed gardener and botanist. The inspiration and theme Maria Grazia Chiuri selected is important for this moment in time focusing on nature and preservation of biodiversity.
The set for the show was an “inclusive garden”, with trees that made up the background which will later be replanted as they are part of a traveling grove designed with landscape collective Coloco. Unlike shows of the past where a slew of vibrant flowers would be used then discarded, the theme of sustainability was a focus this season. When asked about this, Grazia Chiuri said “We have to use creativity, but we are more conscious about what we do.”
The overall collection was a twist on utilitarian classic featuring everything from tie-dyed jeans to slouchy pants to perforated hiking boots. Texture was a focus for the collection, as it always is with Chiuri, but this time we saw life infused with raffia, layered tulle, and other interwoven appliqués.
As for the bags, Chiuri focused on key silhouettes in seasonal variations. The highly coveted Book Tote has been reimagined in cream, grey, striped, and tie-dye embroidered canvas with some renditions showcasing the famed Cannage pattern. The simplicity of the canvas paired with the colors chosen flows seamlessly with the overall theme while also feeling fresh and on-trend. The same finish was given to Lady Dior Bags and there were 30 Montaigne and Saddle bags to round out the bags. To pay homage to Catherine’s gardening roots, a tote with outer pockets for gardening tools was included as well. Though playful, the bag is oddly intriguing in a way that could be repurposed for many. Need a new garden bag, sure, but make it Dior.
Many times ready to wear collections feature the ornate showpieces in a way that we can all appreciate but they don’t translate to everyday wear. This was not the case for Chiuri’s Spring 2020 collection. Real designs that could be worn now and forever created a collection I can’t get out of my head, from clothing to bags to accessories, and that is rare.