The Louis Vuitton Men’s Spring 2019 collection, Virgil Abloh’s very first for the brand as its new inventive director of menswear, will be controversial by the pretty reality of who Abloh is as a designer: he’s gifted at interpreting trends and influences, fusing low and higher, and obtaining a way to translate longstanding luxury signatures for a young, world-wide-web-savvy audience. For a lot of older and much more established luxury shoppers, these strengths are normally interpreted significantly less positively: pandering to trends, copying, cheapening the brands they enjoy, shifting concentrate away from them to persons who they believe, frankly, have not earned it. The reality of Abloh’s perform, and of his very first LV collection, is someplace in the middle.
Each the show and the collection have been joyful and multicolored, with a forever-lengthy rainbow runway and bags that ranged from pure white to close to-neon red and iridescent PVC. The see-via Keepalls are a lot of exciting but appear inexpensive and undoubtedly will not be, and refinement in finishing is anything Abloh has necessary to step up for a when. I do not doubt that he will at Louis Vuitton, although, with the company’s huge sources and vast employees at his disposal. (And, of course, with LVMH executives searching more than his shoulder.) And some of his influences come via with as well tiny “interpretation,” especially in some clothes that showed indicators of now-defunct New York brand Hood By Air.
Some of Abloh’s detractors, although, could be shocked by other components of the collection. His leather bags have been largely each loyal to Louis Vuitton tradition and pretty high priced-searching, with a flourish right here and there to indicate the guard had nonetheless changed given that final season. My favourite touches have been the grenade-pin closures, fastened to bags with chains. It took my brain a moment to settle on what they have been, which is the precise level of cleverness I like in a detail. It also manages to be clever without the need of becoming cutesy, which is a tone that women’s designers in common could attempt a tiny tougher to strike in these circumstances.
All round, the collection appears like it will be a customer hit, and it tends to make me appear forward to what else he’ll do with the brand.
[Photos via Vogue Russia]