Raf Simons had a very particular viewpoint at Dior from the very beginning: futuristic, architectural, innovative and extremely feminine. His successor, former Valentino co-creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, has established her own very different viewpoint just as rapidly: her Dior harkens to the past on a number of simultaneous timelines, and with Dior’s just-debuted Pre-Fall 2017 bags, she’s chosen to plumb both the mid-20th century and the 1980s.
Logos are a resurgent trend in fashion thanks in large part to brands like Gucci, who are finding ways to blend a winking acknowledgement of early 2000s gaudiness with 80s excess and a splash of au courant streetwear. Chiuri brings this to a number of brand new Dior bags (many of which reflect Chiuri’s influence on Valentino’s recent accessories in her previous position) by way of big, gold Dior logos, spelling out the full name. In addition to that, Chiuri revives the Dior logo jacquard fabric on bags that look like they were made when it was last popular. Part of me wants to scoff at how on-the-nose those pieces feel, but in a market with endless appetite for nostalgia, they might just find their place.
What was most interesting to me, though, was how few of the bags felt anything like the Dior that gained so much popularity with accessories shoppers in the past few years. In addition to the bags that harkened back to the early 2000s and 1980s, there were many that looked further into the past, as far as the 1950s. That was a massively important time for Dior, of course, but it’s not one we’ve often seen represented in the brand’s modern bags.
Check out all the bags from the line below and let us know what you think in the comments.
[Photos via Vogue Runway]